Known for their stability and favorable sensory profile, dimethicones have been a mainstay in skincare for over 50 years. However, as consumer awareness and industry pressures grow, the quest for sustainable and responsible alternatives has intensified. In this blog, Elena Genescà, Global Commercial Product Manager, introduces an innovative new plant-based substitute, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™, that mirrors the benefits of silicones whilst delivering leading-edge environmental credentials.

Goodness at heart, right from the source

Lipex SheaLuxe TR is one of a growing number of new ingredients derived from 100% natural, renewable, and entirely biodegradable sources. As with many of this newer breed of silicone alternatives, its production can be carried out at low pressures and temperatures, making it more energy efficient than typical dimethicones. 

In addition, SheaLuxe is climate-compensated. This involves a life cycle assessment following the ISO 14040/4 methodology to calculate the CO2 equivalent emitted per kilogram produced, and offset the emissions with Gold Standard and FairTrade carbon credits from a FairClimateFund project in Burkina Faso. The project reduces CO2 emissions by training women shea collectors to build and use safer, more energy-efficient cookstoves. 

But the good news about SheaLuxe doesn't end there, as Product Manager Elena Genescà , explains: “What gets our entire team so excited about SheaLuxe is that in addition to being biodegradable and climate compensated , it’s made exclusively from Shea kernels that are traceable to our custom-built direct sourcing programme.”

The Kolo Nafaso programme Elena mentions represent the largest segregated supply chain for Shea kernels in West Africa. Its impact is profound, engaging around 300,000 women, nearly 8% of West Africa's shea kernel collectors and giving them a guaranteed outlet and better financial return for their shea harvest. It means SheaLuxe goes a step further than most with its sustainability credentials; directly supporting the livelihood and wellbeing of the women shea collectors.

It’s exciting news for formulators who work with value-driven brands who will appreciate the way it supports their sustainability targets, whilst delivering on their socio-economic responsibilities too. 

But how does it feel?

Formulators know there’s usually one problem with silicone alternatives that means a switch is untenable. The sticking point, somewhat ironically, is stickiness itself, or more specifically, the fact that traditional silicone alternatives feel tackier, greasier, and less dry than most consumers typically like. Product Manager Elena says, “At the end of the day”, [consumers] are not willing to compromise on how good their products feel - but with SheaLuxe, they don’t have to!

 “SheaLuxe is processed to closely mimic the sensory and aesthetic properties of low-viscosity dimethicones and an independent sensory test has confirmed it is a best-in-class alternative to a low-viscosity dimethicone in terms of its lightness, spreadability, dry residue and silky skin after-feel.”

In simple terms, Lipex SheaLuxe TR is stable and easy for formulators to work with. It’s colorless so it looks the part, and it has a low viscosity which allows it to spread easily. And then there’s that all important after feeling: “Users report that it’s silky, light and dry to the touch, with no sticky or greasy residue after use”, says Elena. 

In fact, in blind tests run at the end of 2023, less than 50% of participants were able to identify which of three samples contained LIPEX SheaLuxe TR and which contained a low viscosity dimethicone. 

With new Lipex SheaLuxe TR, formulators can now have the best of both worlds with an ingredient that is ethically produced and beautiful to use. Elena adds: “It’s a combination that you just don’t see very much in our industry yet and we’re proud to be leading the way on it with SheaLuxe.”

Find out more

For more detailed information on Lipex SheaLuxe TR's composition, properties, and fully traceable supply chain, visit our product page and join us in embracing the future of beauty - where sustainability and performance go hand in hand.