The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Supplier’s Day took place on June 3 and 4 at the Jacob Javits Center. This event usually happens around May, but this year’s scheduling allowed more breathing space for attendees who also went to In-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam. The show was well attended and the crowd energetic, attracting around 11,500 attendees according to NYSCC. Our team members certainly felt the momentum – with back-to-back meetings and events making the time fly by quickly.
In this post, our dedicated team has combined key insights and trends with relevant connections to AAK. Some of the themes seen at in-Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam reappeared here as well, highlighting shared industry priorities and directions for future formulation development.
Skinlongevity
You may have first heard the term “Skinlongevity” from the brand bareMinerals, but it’s a concept fast gaining traction Our team has noticed more suppliers and brands talk about this trend, which emphasizes long-term, sustained skin and hair health over quick fixes. Instead of targeting individual signs of aging, skin care companies and ingredient suppliers are increasingly promoting “better aging” or “slow aging.” Claims such as supporting skin smoothness and firmness fall into this category. This shift was also observed at In-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam earlier this year.
In response to this trend, our team developed and showcased the Skin Longevity Foundation Stick – a clean, buildable formula that blends skincare benefits with a soft matte finish to support smoother, healthier-looking skin over time. We intentionally reduced the use of waxes and focused on emollients to provide structure and maintain the integrity of the stick. We used a combination of LIPEX® IllipeSoft™—for structure building and a soft matte effect - together with LIPEX® SheaSoft TR™ to deliver rich emollience and long-lasting skin barrier protecting benefits. The bioactive LIPEX® SheaTris™ is also incorporated for documented skin soothing and collagen protecting properties.
Sunscreen Development with Mineral UV Filters
Why choose mineral sunscreens?
Mineral sunscreens are still trending - especially in North America. Generally classified as safe for sensitive skin and environmentally friendly, mineral sunscreens offer immediate, broad-spectrum protection. They are preferred by skincare enthusiasts who prefer a physical barrier to sit on top of the skin for UV protection.
One of the main challenges faced by formulators when using mineral sunscreens is the “white cast” or “ghosting” from the increased use of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. New advancements, such as improved UV mineral dispersion, the addition of tints, and the use of esters to enhance absorption and skin feel, are helping to create modern, more elegant formulations.
AAK offers LIPEX® SheaSolve™ as a high-performance dispersant that addresses the key concerns of formulating mineral sunscreens. This multifunctional shea-based ester optimizes the wetting of pigments and UV mineral filters. The fully saturated nature of the material helps prevent pigment agglomeration, reducing the traditional ghosting effect that occurs when using high loads of UV mineral filters. The composition of the material also contributes to maintaining low viscosity and enhancing the spreadability of final formulations. For inspiration, check out our SunSafe Mineral Stick SPF50.
Silicone-free Sensory Experience
Silicone alternatives are on the rise. While there are no direct replacements in terms of chemical composition and structure, the demand for sustainable alternatives with similar sensory profiles is growing. At AAK, we are committed to enhancing formulation aesthetics, while also being mindful of environmental impact and ensuring broad ingredient compatibility. That’s why, last year, we launched LIPEX® SheaLuxe™ TR, a next generation ester designed to replicate the sensory attributes of lightweight dimethicone. Miscible with plant-based oils and butters, it is also compatible and miscible with ethyl alcohol, making it a versatile choice.
What sets LIPEX SheaLuxe TR apart from other silicone alternatives, is its sustainability profile – readily biodegradable and climate-compensated, it is produced from shea kernels full traceable to AAK’s direct sourcing program in West Africa. Since launch, it has received four awards recognizing excellence in sustainable innovation. To demonstrate its versatility, our team worked on prototype developments, including a makeup primer, eye gel cream, and hair oil, which have all been positively received. Check out this link for more information and formulation development ideas.
Renewable Sourcing, Ingredient Transparency, and Traceability
As more brands and retailers demand greater visibility into how ingredients are sourced, suppliers are becoming increasingly proactive in sharing detailed data about their products. At the same time, sustainable ingredient management is gaining attention, particularly as tariffs and geopolitical factors drive up prices across industries.
At this year’s event, our team noted a growing focus on renewable sourcing, ingredient transparency, and traceability. It’s important to note that while interconnected, these terms are not interchangeable. Let’s break them down:
Renewable sourcing refers to ingredients derived from natural resources that can be replenished over time—such as plants and crops—rather than finite, fossil-based sources.
Traceability describes where an ingredient comes from and how it moves through the supply chain—from origin to final product. The definition of “origin” can vary, from country or region to a specific community or farm, depending on supply chain complexity. In AAK’s Personal Care portfolio, ingredients labeled with the suffix SG (or TR in the case of shea) come from segregated supply chains. This means they are kept physically separate from other material at every stage - ensuring the integrity of origin claims.
Ingredient transparency is about what is shared or disclosed regarding an ingredient—its source, function, processing method, and potential environmental or health impact.
Each of the above represents a specific and complementary aspect of sustainable sourcing. Together they help build credibility and trust. At AAK, we are committed to sharing information about our sourcing practices, supply chain structures, and sustainability performance. You can explore our latest progress in our annual Sustainability Report
Our AAK Global team is actively bridging ingredient trends with plant-based emollients. If you wish to meet members of the North America Team in person, catch us at our next few events:
- The Sunscreen Symposium, September 18-20, Lake Buena Vista, Florida
- California Supplier’s Day, October 29-30, Los Angeles.
We look forward to codeveloping with your team.
Sources:
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/
MD Anderson Dermatology: https://www.mdanderson.org/cancerwise/is-mineral-sunscreen-better-than-chemical-sunscreen.h00-159540534.html
Skin Cancer.org: https://www.skincancer.org/blog/broad-spectrum-protection-sunscreen/
Mintel: https://www.mintel.com/insights/beauty-and-personal-care/conscious-cosmetics-the-rise-of-clean-beauty/
